Member Travel Logs

A Journey to the Lembeh Strait - Sulawesi
by Mitch Carl
All Photos © Scott W. Michael

On September 26 I left for Sulawesi along with Scott Michael and Larry Jackson. This was my first trip to the Indo-Pacific region, so I was very excited to be going. Scott had gone on and on about this dive trip and the area we were visiting, so I had a good idea what I was getting myself into!

Map of Northern
Sulawesi

Lembeh Virtual Dive
Photo by Denise Tackett

 

Lembeh Virtual Dive
Photo by Denise Tackett

The trip was a long one. We flew to St. Louis, New York, Frankfurt, Germany, Singapore and then to Manado, Sulawesi. After a long trip (36 hours) we had to take a car to the resort about 2 hours away. It felt very good to finally get there and relax by the beach! It was quite amazing to look over the railing of the restaurant and see clownfish, giant clams, brain coral, lettuce coral and fish of all sorts right below me. After getting settled in, I grabbed my mask and snorkel and set off to see the house reef. The house reef is a much underrated dive. There were huge stands of hammer coral, pulsing xenia coral, anemones and tons and tons of fish. There were big schools of fairy wrasses, heniochus butterflies, chromis and many triggers, pipefish and other oddballs. For a snorkel, it was very impressive!

My Sulawesi Home The rooms were very nice. I shared a cottage with Larry. It was a two bedroom, large bathroom and a small living room/sun room. We were steps from the beach and from the dive boats. The rooms were cleaned twice a day, so I barely had time to mess up the room. The restaurant was also nice. They had a variety food from local dishes to mexican! Most of what we ate was grilled fish and various rice and noodle dishes. I am usually a very picky eater, but I found many things that I enjoyed. The package deal we got included meals which was very nice. I didn't have to worry about spending to much or ordering something different that I might not like. It was just one less thing to worry about.

Lembeh Virtual Dive The staff was very friendly and most spoke good english. We could usually get them to laugh with all of our stupid antics, so at least we thought we were funny. Larry and Denise Tackket were the dive masters at this time. They were filling in since the resort was between divemasters. They have done over 1500 dives in the straits, so they knew the spots well. During the briefing they would tell us what to expect, and usually that is what we got. The dive guides were very adept at finding the weird and wacky creatures that we wanted to see. At times I had no idea how they could spot some of the things they did. Some of the smallest creatures to some of the most well camouflaged, they found it all. We regularly saw pygmy seahorses, ghost pipefish, frogfish, leafish, cuttles, stingrays, pipefish, symbiotic crabs and shrimps, devilfish, scorpions and all sorts of other things. Being a coral guy, it was amazing to see the variety, size and quantity of different corals. I have kept many of the coral species in aquariums before, but to see a coral that at home is the size of my fist, and here it is 7x7 ft colony is breathtaking! I was blown away when I would see thousands of leather corals and colonies of hammer coral that was the size of a small house!

There are many travel logs on lembeh to read, so I won't bore you with a blow by blow dive account. I would highly recommend this trip to people looking for something different. We went diving with a skin diver writer who had said he had been to over 40 countries in the Indo-Pacific region. We went to hairball which is a great dive site. I came up to the boat and got out. This was my 3rd dive at this site and I thought it was a good but not great dive (the 2nd dive there was the best). This veteran gets out of the water just gushing about how incredible it was. He had never seen such a wide variety of oddball animals. I figure if a guy who has seen it all sees something different, it must be a great dive destination.

Lembeh Virtual Dive Besides diving, I did take a trip to the rain forest. If you do go, prepare yourself! It is a 2 hours bumpy ride to the forest, a hot sweaty 2 hour hike, then a dark bumpy 2 hour ride home. And in case you didn't know, the rainforest is hot and humid! I didn't think I could sweat that much. After all that effort we saw 2 kinds of monkeys, a bat, a lizard and hornbills. I told these arrogant non-divers (who told me of their disdain for divers) that for a six hour journey in which I nearly collapsed from exhaustion, I saw a piddley 5 different animals. I told them that in one 45 minute dive I could see over 70 species of fish and over 30 different species of corals and have energy afterwards. Now you tell me which is better!

The trip back seemed even longer! If you have a layover in Singapore (which you will), take the free 2 hour tour of the city. They take you in a nice tour bus to downtown. There you get to walk around and take a boat ride up and down the river.The city is really neat, and it is a good way to kill 2 hours.

Overall I had a great time. Hopefully this won't be my "once in a lifetime" trip, and I will get to do this again. It has changed my views on how to keep many of these creatures alive and happy in my aquariums.

Looking for Information on Sulawesi marine life?
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© Mitch and Jena Carl 1999, All Rights Reserved.